Petzl Reverso Belay-Rappel Device

Designed to be versatile and lightweight, Petzl Reverso is a belay/rappel device perfect for single or multi-pitch climbing and mountaineering. With the ability to belay a second climber from the anchor and offering Reverso mode for one or two strands, this device is known for its smooth rope glide and reduced wear. It is also compatible with a wide range of rope diameters, including single 8.5-11 mm, half 7.1-9.2 mm, and twin 6.9-9.2 mm.

Features

Simple to use:

• Slack feeding and fall catching are managed using standard belay techniques, ensuring that a hand is always kept on the brake side of the rope.
• The rope moves effortlessly through the device, ensuring smooth operation.
• V-shaped friction grooves provide controlled braking, enhancing safety and efficiency.
• Clear rope installation diagrams for both belaying and Reverso mode are engraved on the device for quick reference.
  
  

Versatile for single and multi-pitch climbing, as well as mountaineering:

• It can be used to belay a climber or facilitate rappelling on one or two strands of rope.
• Reverso mode allows belaying of one or two second climbers with assisted braking for added security.
• A release hole enables the belayer to provide slack to a second climber using just a single carabiner.
  
  

Lightweight and durable:

• Compact and exceptionally lightweight, weighing only 57 g, making it easy to carry during climbs.
• The rounded design of the rope slots minimises wear and prolongs the lifespan of the device.
• Compatible with a wide range of dynamic rope diameters, including single ropes (8.5 to 11 mm), half ropes (7.1 to 9.2 mm), and twin ropes (6.9 to 9.2 mm).

Specifications

Technology

Technical Notice

• Download the PDF : technical-notice-REVERSO-5 - 3.86 MB

Tips for maintaining your equipment

• Download the PDF - 3.56 MB

Inspection

PPE inspection procedure

• Download the PDF - 0.01 MB

PPE checklist

• Download the PDF - 0.02 MB

Technical Content

Choice of Carabiners for Attaching a Verso or Reverso to the Harness

Key issues and risks The VERSO or REVERSO must be detached and re-attached each time the rope is installed, on every pitch of the climb. The large number of manipulations during the day increases the risk of error. Each time slack is given, the rope becomes slack, so the device and its carabiner can move about and become poorly positioned, and can remain so when the system again comes under tension. The rope running through the carabiner can rub against the locking sleeve. The belay/rappel system's carabiner is frequently used alone, with no possibility for redundancy. If the carabiner opens or breaks, the user will certainly fall. The most important risks to consider

Why this choice? • The Am’D's shape offers a good support zone for the frame of the VERSO or REVERSO • The SCREW-LOCK system allows the carabiner to remain unlocked until both ropes are installed. Warning: ropes moving through the carabiner can rub against the sleeve and unlock it: watch for the appearance of the red visual indicator. • The BALL-LOCK system is less sensitive to the rope rubbing against the sleeve

Precautions for use • Do a partner check at each connection • Regularly monitor your belay device and the positioning of the carabiner during use, especially when it is reloaded after having been unloaded  • Verify that the SCREW-LOCK sleeve is properly locked at each connection (red indicator not visible)

Notes

• The ATTACHE can be used for this application. Warning: if the carabiner rotates when using larger diameter half ropes, the ropes can become damaged by the inside edges of the gate
• The TWIST-LOCK system is not recommended for this application, as the sleeve can be unlocked and the gate opened by a single motion of the rope
  

Belaying With The Reverso

In climbing and mountaineering, proper use of belay devices is the cornerstone of the belay chain. The belayer holds the life of their partner in their hands. This task requires as much attention as it does training. The climber's confidence in their belayer has a major effect on their performance. It is important to remember that a good climber should also be a good belayer.

Belaying with the REVERSO

The REVERSO is a belay/rappel device that uses a standardized series of movements associated with most tube-type belay devices. This video therefore shows a belay technique common to all Petzl devices of this kind (VERSO, REVERSO and UNIREVERSO).

Video

Rappelling

Rope techniques for a rappel descent require vigilance and organisation. All manoeuvres at the anchor must be done while directly connected to the anchor.

1. Installing the Rope at the Anchor

Note: Tying a knot at the end of the rope is a necessary precaution in a variety of situations (long rappel, poor visibility, fatigue).

2. Installing a Friction Hitch

A friction hitch holds the user if they need to go hands free during the rappel (e.g. rockfall, knots in rope).

• To make it easier to install the descender, install the friction first and pull rope through to create slack.
  
• Attach the friction hitch to the belay loop of the harness with a girth hitch to keep from dropping it.
  
  

3. Installing the Descender

• Attach the fixed arm of the DUAL CONNECT ADJUST to the descender.
  
• Install the strands of rope in the descender and remember to lock the carabiner.
  
• Take up slack between the descender and the anchor, and between the descender and the friction hitch.
  
• Remove the adjustable arm from the anchor, and you’re ready to rappel.
  
  

Tip: While descending, the adjustable arm of your lanyard is not used. Clip it to the retrieval strand to serve as a reference once you arrive at the next anchor.

4. Reaching the Next Anchor

To more easily reach the anchor, set the adjustable arm of your lanyard to its maximum length.

Once you have clipped the anchor and are on your feet, adjust the length of your lanyard.

5. Setting Up for the Next Rappel

• Remove the rope from the descender and friction hitch.
  
• Attach the two ropes to the anchor so you don’t lose them and to back up the second climber’s descent.
  
• Remove the knots at the ends of the rope if necessary.
  
• Take the rope end that you’re going to pull and pass it through the rappel ring.
  
  

6. Recovering the Rope

Once the second climber is directly connected to the anchor, pull the rope.

To move from one rappel to the next, (with two rope ends of the same diameter), pass the rope through the rappel ring as it is being pulled from the previous rappel: the second pulls the appropriate rope end, while the leader ensures that it runs smoothly through the ring.

Once the knot reaches the anchor, the lead climber may begin installing their friction hitch and descender.

Verify that there are stopper knots at the end of each rope.

Once both rope strands have been recovered, the leader is ready to descend.