Petzl Omni Locking Carabiner

The Petzl Omni Locking Carabiner is designed for multi-directional use, allowing for fastening of the FALCON ASCENT harnesses and attachment of a CROLL ventral rope clamp.

 

Features

 

• The multi-directional carabiner is designed to:
  
  
  • Secure the FALCON ASCENT harness by connecting the two attachment points.
  • Attach a CROLL ventral rope clamp to the FALCON ASCENT harness.
    

• The carabiner offers a strength of 15 kN in all directions.
• The Keylock system minimises the risk of snagging during manoeuvres.
• A red indicator visually signals when the carabiner is unlocked, applicable to the SCREW-LOCK version.
  
• Locking systems are available in:
  
  
  • SCREW-LOCK: A manual screw-lock mechanism that includes a red band, offering a visual alert when the carabiner remains unlocked.

 

Specifications

 

Material(s)	Aluminium
Certification(s)	CE EN 362, UKCA, GB/T 23469 / B
Weight	85 g
Locking system	SCREW-LOCK
Major axis strength	20 kN
Minor axis strength	15 kN
Open gate strength	7 kN
Gate opening	15 mm
Inner Pack Count	10

 

 

Technology

 

Technical Notice

• Download the PDF : technical-notice-OMNI-1 - 1.10 MB

Declaration Of Conformity

• Download the PDF : UE-Declaration-M37TL-Omni-Triact-Lock - 0.63 MB
• Download the PDF : UE-Declaration-M37SL-Omni-Screw-Lock - 0.64 MB
• Download the PDF : UKCA-Declaration-M37-OMNI SL-TL - 0.55 MB

Tips for maintaining your equipment

• Download the PDF - 3.13 MB

 

 

Inspection

 

PPE inspection procedure

• Download the PDF - 2.55 MB

PPE checklist

• Download the PDF - 0.20 MB

 

 

Technical Content

 

Carabiner Locking Systems

The various systems meet different needs for each application, for a precise balance between ergonomics and safety.

SCREW-LOCK (SL) Classic manual system, versatile and universal

ERGONOMICS

Advantages:

• The sleeve locks manually, only when desired by the user
• Can be operated with one hand
  

Disadvantages:

• The time it takes to lock the sleeve

 

SAFETY

Advantages:

• Reliability in dirty or harsh environments
• Red visual indicator, when unlocked, to facilitate monitoring
• The user actively operates the sleeve when locking, so they are immediately alerted in case of bad locking

Risks:

• Vibrations can unlock the sleeve
• Rubbing can unlock the sleeve
• Risk of forgetting to lock the sleeve
  

 

TWIST-LOCK (RL) Auto-locking and double action opening system

ERGONOMICS

Advantages:

• Speed and ease of opening
• Rapid auto-locking

Disadvantages:

• Sleeve must be unlocked each time the carabiner is opened
• Two hands needed to insert a device into the carabiner
  

 

SAFETY

Advantages:

• Rapid auto-locking

Risks:

• Chance of improper locking when the carabiner closes (e.g. sling caught between the nose and the gate). The user must verify that the carabiner is properly closed and locked, even when using an auto-locking system
• Sensitivity to rubbing by rope or equipment: the sleeve can accidentally unlock and the gate come open in the same motion

 

WIRE-LOCK (WL) Auto-locking and double action opening system System designed specifically for the end of a lanyard

ERGONOMICS

Advantages:

• Speed and ease of opening almost as easy as a non-locking carabiner
• Rapid auto-locking: system suited to very frequent connection and disconnection

 

SAFETY

Advantages:

• Rapid auto-locking

Risks:

• Less locking security than with other systems, yet offers more security than a non-locking carabiner
• Very sensitive to external pressure: the sleeve unlocks and the gate opens in the same motion

 

TRIACT-LOCK (TL) Auto-locking and triple action opening system

ERGONOMICS

Advantages:

• Rapid auto-locking.

Disadvantages:

• Sleeve must be unlocked each time the carabiner is opened
• Tricky sleeve operation, requires practice
• Two hands needed to insert a device into the carabiner

SAFETY

Advantages:

• Security of triple action locking (excluding rubbing and external pressure)
• Rapid auto-locking

Risks:

• Chance of improper locking when the carabiner closes (e.g. sling caught between the nose and the gate). The user must verify that the carabiner is properly closed and locked, even when using an auto-locking system
• Sensitivity to mud or other foreign objects that can impede auto-locking

 

BALL-LOCK (BL) Auto-locking and triple action opening system

ERGONOMICS

Advantages:

• Rapid auto-locking
• Visual locking indicator

Disadvantages:

• Sleeve must be unlocked each time the carabiner is opened
• Tricky sleeve operation, especially with gloves, requires practice. System is less "ambidextrous" than the others
• Two hands needed to insert a device into the carabiner

SAFETY

Advantages:

• Security of triple action locking (excluding rubbing and external pressure)
• Rapid auto-locking

Risks:

• Chance of improper locking when the carabiner closes (e.g. sling caught between the nose and the gate). The user must verify that the carabiner is properly closed and locked, even when using an auto-locking system

 

PIN-LOCK (PL) Auto-locking and triple action opening system with tool

ERGONOMICS

Advantages:

• Long duration installation without manipulation
• Helps limit incorrect operation during use
• Helps prevent the user from becoming disconnected during use

Disadvantages:

• Complicated to disconnect in the field, for example in case of emergency

SAFETY

Advantages:

• Triple action locking gives great security, with a tool required for the first action

Risks:

• Chance of improper locking when the carabiner closes (e.g. sling caught between the nose and the gate). The user must verify that the carabiner is properly closed and locked, even when using an auto-locking system

 

EASHOOK / MGO System

Auto-locking and double action opening system

ERGONOMICS

Advantages:

• Speed and ease of opening
• Rapid auto-locking
• Good separation of the two actions required to open the gate

Disadvantages:

• Limited compatibility with anchors and equipment
• Carabiner rotation in equipment is impossible

SAFETY

Advantages:

• Good separation of the two actions required to open the gate
• Directional carabiner that helps promote major axis loading
• Rapid auto-locking

Risks:

• External pressure from the structure or equipment can unlock and open the gate
• The large size can increase the risk of cantilever loading depending on the supporting media

 

Semi Permanent Connectors (RING OPEN, quick links...)

Manual closing system with a tool needed for locking

ERGONOMICS

Advantages:

• Long duration installation without manipulation
• Helps limit incorrect operation during use
• Helps prevent the user from becoming disconnected during use

Disadvantages:

• Complicated to disconnect in the field, for example in case of emergency
• Tool required for assembly and disassembly

SAFETY

Advantages:

• Very secure locking if the initial tightening is done correctly

Risks:

• The initial locking must done correctly and carefully checked before use
• The large size can increase the risk of cantilever loading depending on the supporting media

 

 

Carabiner Basics

The carabiner is an essential link in any vertical equipment kit. It is very strong when used correctly, but can break or come open if misused. Understanding the strengths and weaknesses of carabiners allows the user to make the most suitable choice for each application.

WARNINGS Carefully read the Instructions for Use used in this technical advice before consulting the advice itself. You must have already read and understood the information in the Instructions for Use to be able to understand this supplementary information. Mastering these techniques requires specific training. Work with a professional to confirm your ability to perform these techniques safely and independently before attempting them unsupervised. We provide examples of techniques related to your activity. There may be others that we do not describe here.

 

A carabiner is designed to be loaded on the major axis, with the gate closed and the sleeve locked. Only the strength rating for the major axis with gate closed is suitable for the loads sustained by a carabiner in vertical activities. Loading a carabiner in any other way can be dangerous.

 

Examples of Dangerous Carabiner Loading

The risks associated with incorrect loading can be reduced: By choosing a suitable carabiner (carabiner shape and locking system) By using specific accessories (STRING, CAPTIV, TANGA, plastic sleeve) By suitable usage precautions (vigilance, monitoring, good initial placement...) For each use: Anticipate the risks of dangerous loading during use. Position and load carabiners on the major axis, gate closed, sleeve locked. Monitor your carabiners regularly during use. Follow the instructions presented in your carabiners' Instructions for Use

 

Balance between a carabiner's ease of opening and security of locking

 

A secure lock reduces the probability of accidental opening in use.

The most secure lock is that of a quick link tightened with a tool, with a near zero probability of accidental opening. But such a lock does not make for efficient operation in the field.

Ease of opening (ergonomics) enables quick and efficient connection and disconnection. In certain situations, this contributes as much to user safety as the security of the lock.

This balance must be finely tuned: the user must choose what is suitable for each type of use. The other parts of this document give details, based on the application, to aid the user in this choice.

SECURITY (-)		SECURITY (+)
ERGONOMICS (+)		ERGONOMICS (-)

 

 

Carabiner Compatibility Test

Any time equipment is to be used with a new carabiner, a compatibility test is recommended.

Petzl does tests for Petzl products and carabiners; specific details on compatibility are mentioned in the Instructions for Use for the devices.

• Verify that the chosen carabiner is suitable for the intended use
• Verify that the carabiner's cross-section is suitable
• Check that the carabiner does not jam in the device's attachment hole
• Assess the possibility of the carabiner getting into a bad position and the stability of this bad position
• Check the risk of interference between the elements of the system and the carabiner sleeve
  
  

Note: For devices fitted with a flexible carabiner positioning piece (ZIGZAG, PIRANA...) repeat the compatibility test whenever you install a new carabiner. The flexible piece may have been deformed by the last carabiner, and may not correctly position the new one.

 

 

Different Carabiner Shapes

A good choice of carabiner shape can increase ergonomics and security for certain uses.

 

The shape of the carabiner frame has an influence on:

• Major axis strength
• Load distribution
• Gate opening size, and capacity
• Strength in certain positions
• Ease of handling

Another less obvious effect is the balance of the carabiner itself: for example pear-shaped carabiners rotate more readily, which can result in poor positioning. D-shaped carabiners tend to stay in place better.

D Positioning of the load in the strongest axis, closest to the spine side of the frame. Suited to simple loads (connection of devices, attachment to the anchor...).

 

Oval Symmetric shape for even loading (devices with a large attachment hole, pulleys...).

 

Pear High capacity, for connecting multiple items or bulky items.

 

Wide opening carabiner Wide opening facilitates attachment to anchors, cables...

 

OMNI Multidirectional Carabiner Specific shape suited to multidirectional loading

 

Directional Carabiner Two separate attachment areas to optimise loading on the major axis, for specific uses.